drove drove and drove. That was a long day of not much to see and we just
needed to get there.
think back to 20 years ago and maybe this was the drive that Mike and I did on
the red earth roads before they paved it. I’m not sure if we did the Gibb river
road or not but I remember spending a few days on a red dirt road in the middle
of no where. I must get home to look at the photos I took to remind me of what
we did and where we went.
we got to the visitor’s centre we got some info and we were all a little spent
from the day. We’d missed a turn that meant we’d have to come back 70kms the
next day to see a gorge we missed.
headed to the campground that was the cheapest campground we’ve camped at
(besides free). No bells and whistles here….basically toilets and a dirt spot.
They don’t really have tables here for people to eat at at the campgrounds
(this is a total shocker).
headed down to the falls and Luc went for a swim. It was beautiful. Then back
to the campground to listen to music and eat dinner.
next day we decided to do a walk along the top of Dale’s gorge. And then down
into the bottom where the circular pool is. I had to have a swim in the
beautiful water. There’s something about water that awakens my senses. I only
wish I could have done it naked.
we walked from one end of the gorge to the other back to the first pool where
Luc swam the day before. This, I remember walking when I was with Mike. It was
really pretty and not too hot. We got to one perfect place to swim but pressed onto
the falls and took a dip there. Then we went up a bit further and saw a baby
snake that I swear tried to take a swipe at Vivi’s ankle that was covered by a
sock and shoe. Where there are babies, there are mamas and papas.
we ate some sandwiches in the parking and drove back the 70 kms to the other
gorge. It was beautiful and Luc was able to fly the drone up a couple of times.
I hope I can post the drone video when I post this blog.
then headed back the 70kms and then some to a free campsite where we were the
only ones! That was a bit unnerving but also really tranquil. In the morning we
let out a bunch of carnal roars and screams because we could and I got naked in
the parking lot because I could. I’m working on a different relationship with
my body and being naked occasionally is so liberating.
drove to Eighty Mile beach where we did laundry and spent some time down at the
ocean. It was a beautiful sunset on the beach where Luc and Vivi did some shell
collecting and I did some meditation and “just being present”.
next morning we took it easy and we were going to drive to a free spot outside
of Broome but decided to go all the way into town. We had enough time.
stopped at the Broome caravan park that Mike and I lived at for a few weeks.
The place was similar but changed. So many memories there. A specific moment
when I made a phone call that I remember… the phone booth isn’t there anymore.
headed into town to the mother of all caravan parks. There was only wifi at the
café so you know where I was in the morning. It was perfect timing as well as
there was a party for the passing of Carolyn Wadel that people went live on FB
so I was able to partake in that a little bit that I really appreciated.
night we went down to the beach to watch yet another incredible sunset on Cable
Beach. We might have stolen power in our non-powered site…
trees are abundant here and they are so beautiful and unique. Each one
different, they are so stunning and carry so much character. I feel like their
energy must be 1000s of years old. They can hold oodles of litres of water
inside them and won’t burn in a fire.
next day we explored around Broome. Nothing was the same everything was new – I
didn’t remember a single thing. We didn’t visit the oldest movie theatre in the
world as it didn’t work out for us and with what we wanted to see. I don’t
think I visited this either when I was here 20 years ago. We visited a Sunday
Market where we bought some Emu Cream and necklaces. We visited some pearling
shops and had lunch at a brewery that was delicious. We drove over to where the
red earth meets the blue ocean. It wasn’t as stunning as you see in drone shots
on Instagram. We couldn’t fly the drone up because it was close to an airport.
over to the visitors centre for some much needed info and then back to Cable
Beach to see the sunset one last time and see dinosaur prints! This time we got
to the place where the camels were walking to get some really cool sunset camel
said goodbye to Broome for a second time. There’s something about this place
that I feel really close to and I’m so glad I got to go back here one more
time. It’s fascinating the feelings you have when you remember something so
well and other times when you don’t remember it at all. There’s warmth and
nostalgia for the memories but then disdain and frustration for not
remembering. As my good friend Sheila says “it’s not the specific things you
remember, just the feelings.” So true. And this place holds a lot of wonderful
feelings for me.
drove off to a caravan park 30kms up the road in the dark. It wasn’t free but
they had wifi so I parked myself again in the morning at the café before the
others rose so I could connect with some friends and family.
we packed up and pushed on to Derby. First stopping at the Prison tree where
the settlers used to hold aboriginals (not very nice grrrr….), the longest
cattle trough in the world (I didn’t get a pic) and to an aboriginal art
drove through Derby to the jetty and made sandwiches. Then we drove to get gas
and groceries. My sunglasses broke (I can’t believe I’ve had them since well
before I left) so I’m on the hunt for new sunnies.
we drove onto the free rest area where we got there with lots of sun left and
we drank wine and leisurely made quesadillas suggested by Vivi.
we packed up the van and headed to Geiki Gorge where I wish we had got there in
time to take a boat tour down the river but instead walked beside the gorge
which was a walk that I truly did not like. I was wearing the wrong shoes
(keens) and it was straight sand. You couldn’t really see the water, the rock
formations were kinda cool but the discomfort of having sand and dirt in your
shoes was like a torture I didn’t want to know. Then we decided to walk across
the sand flats to get closer to the water to maybe see some crocodiles but
little did we know that there were the spikiest grass seeds that hurt so bad
when they touched your skin. OMG get me out of there.
drove back to Fitzroy Crossing and ate our back of the van sandwiches in the
tourist info centre parking lot. Then to the IGA to pick up chocolate and we
wanted to by wine but FC is a dry town. Then we went to the BP and had a shower
each for $5 total. Then off to the second free camping spot in a row with a spectacular
view where I’m writing this blog post from now.
have 7 days until we leave Darwin for Cairns and 6 days until we’re in Darwin.
We’re about 2 days away from the border of the Northern Territory. This part of
the journey feels a bit boring and dry TBH. We’re heading away from the ocean
right now with tiny little Australian towns along the way. Not much to see and
no network either so I’m feeling a bit out of touch with Canada.
had the most delicious dream last night where I went back to work and saw all
my colleagues again. It was so much fun being reunited with them and I woke up
with the biggest smile on my face. It’s 5 weeks and 2 days until we’re back in
Canada. Vivi and I are so incredibly excited to be home and see all our family
hit the road and did a quick drive through central Perth. We realized we didn’t
really spend any time in the heart of Perth CBD. Ever since the Camino, big
cities don’t really interest me. Smaller towns, outskirts, the beach all peak
my interest more than going into big cities. I do feel like I missed out a bit
but such is life, we’ve moved on.
also stopped by Scarborough where I lived for a couple of months and I don’t
remember it at all. All the roads and houses looked the same. So we headed to
the beach and had our first sandwich making out the back of the van beside the
beach. So cool. The beach was long and white with blue blue water. I wanted to
stay and appreciate it but we had a ways to drive our first day and I think we
all just wanted to get on the road.
little ways along our first bathroom stop and we stopped at a National Park. We
bought a National Park pass so we saved ourselves $10 (cha-Ching!). This park
was amazing. Birds flying everywhere in their own natural environment. It was
so serene to listen to their songs everywhere we went. And then we hit the
koala area. We had no idea there were koala bears here so we were pleasantly
surprised! They weren’t held in captivity but the park supplied their food so
no need to stray far. We saw about 6 of them just lounging in the elbow of a
tree. That was really cool. When we walked back the first one decided he needed
some more leaves so moved out of the elbow and we got it all on video. I feel
really lucky to be able to see these little guys.
back on the highway only to be turned around by an accident and a super long
this point the sun was getting low and we got to the pinnacles desert to take
some really cool photos and send up the drone. The pinnacles
are big mounds of rock and dirt that formed Hundreds of thousands of Years ago.
A pretty neat thing to see and really cool at sunset. Sadly our sunset wasn’t
stunning but the light was really beautiful. Check
out the drone video
camped our first night in a caravan park in Cervantes. A lot more expensive
than we thought it was going to be for an unpowered site ($42). But the camp
kitchen had sinks and gas elements to cook on. And plugs to charge all our
electronics. The bathrooms were pretty good too.
was rough the first night trying to figure out how the beds go. It felt really
cramped and Luc was pretty uncomfortable with the space. I have to admit, it
does take some maneuvering of our stuff and people but after a few days we got
used to it. It gets challenging when we get more north and it’s hot out, you
want to open the door but there’s so many flies or the sun has gone down and
there’s tons of moths that love the light inside the van.
next morning we had breakfast and packed up (more learning on how to pack up
the beds) and it took us about a half an hour longer than what it takes us now
6 days later.
destination today was Kalbarri National Park. We had a lot of ground to cover
so it seemed like we mostly drove for the day until the early afternoon when we
stopped at the Pink Lake. It really is pink! Check
out the drone video.
off to a few view points along coast. Absolutely stunning coastline. Rugged red
rocks meet the dramatic waters of the Indian Ocean.
was not on our side so we headed to the campground that was 4kms in on a
corrugated road. This campground was beside a river and I think Luc said some
of the first settlers came there. You could tell because there was old farm
equipment everywhere and a tank!
way too expensive for what it was ($57 I think?). I didn’t use the showers as
it was a bit too rustic for me and the toilets were so far away. But we had our
first fire since we left Canada and roasted marshmallows that Vivi bought in
Bali! We hung out with a couple who were beside us camping in their massive
camper. They were from the east coast and were taking just over a year to
travel around their country with their two girls.
temps are already starting to get warmer just two days into heading up north.
woke up, ate and packed up and headed out. The plan that day was to spend some
time exploring the gorges on the other side of the park and then head to Denham
which is close to Monkey Mia.
gorges in this area are really beautiful. Red rocks cut out by the flowing
water for thousands of years was just breathtaking.
picked up some fly nets because the flies are getting to be unbearable when we
step out of the van. And not a second too soon. Our next stop was Shell Beach
and it was swarming with flies. I was really looking forward to seeing this
beach as I remember it fondly. The beach is covered by tiny white shells. There
really isn’t any sand to speak of. We put our bathing suits on but it really
wasn’t warm enough to swim.
we pushed on and just wanted to get to Denham so we could have showers, wash
laundry and settle in while it was still light out. We cooked in the camp
kitchen and watch “The Voice” on the big screen tv.
next morning we drove over the Monkey Mia. $15/adult and $5/kid. We didn’t want
to pay that just to see the dolphins at the beach. So we snuck in through the
boat ramp. Luc and Vivi ran over to them and I stayed in the get away van.
named her too! Her name is Marvel. Because she brings us to marvelous places
and she is a super hero of course!
meandered back to the main road stopping at a lagoon and Eagle Bluff for lunch.
Eagle Bluff was incredible. What a view with green/blue water. The flies were
bad. To be honest, with the fly net they are just annoying. No where near the
agony of the heat in South East Asia.
night we stayed in our first free rest area. Luc’s favorite place to stay as it
was free. There are places along the road that have toilets, tables and where a
lot of other campers are (safety in numbers).
took off in the morning and arrived in Carnarvon. Small town we wanted to check
out the tourist info centre.
some groceries, gas and we couldn’t find the water fill up station so we went
back to the gas station. Well I parked beside another truck and the angel it
was parked at, the driver would have had to correct before backing up. Luc went
in and I stayed in the van. The driver started to reverse and I could see he
was really close to the van. If he didn’t hit the back corner it would have
been a miracle. Oh and then he did. Sigh… thank goodness we got extra
insurance. This guy was 19, from France, got his driver’s license in January
and was driving around without insurance. Ugh….
we exchanged all the particular info, sent it off to our rental company and set
off to get water. Then we realized while we were waiting for water that the guy
hadn’t signed. So we needed him to come back.
on the road again after a huge time suck.
stopped at a road house to have lunch for the first time eating out. Another
mistake. This just wasn’t our day. So we ordered two burgers and a BLT. My BLT
came and it was tragic and $12!!!!!! Then we waited for Luc and Vivis food. I
guess were used to not getting served at the same time as in SEA we all ate at
different times. But after a while, I was done and their food still didn’t
come, so Luc asked and they had forgotten about theirs!!! They got their food
and the money back.
we pushed to Coral Bay. We stopped once to fly the drone over a bunch of
got to Coral Bay and booked a powered site. $57 with no wifi!!!! A travesty.
And get this: no where in Western Australia (except Perth area I think)
recycles!!!! I’ve talked to a few people who live here and they say it’s too
expensive to put in a recycling plant. It also might have something to do with
the fact that they produce iron in this state. I HATE throwing plastic, glass
and metal in the garbage.
and Luc went swimming at the pool and then we walked down to the beach to see
the sunset. It was stunning. Best sunset I’ve seen since being in Australia.
next day we leisurely woke up and for ready. It was nice because every other
day we were up by 6:30 and gone by 8. All we had planned was a day at the
back To the beach where we saw the sunset. We set up our free beach awning (we
couldn’t believe we had the best awning on the beach and it was free. We were
THOSE people! We snorkeled, made sand castles, read an actual book, saw a blue
spotted sting ray in the water. It was a perfect day. We left there around 4pm
and drove for two hours to another free camping rest area. We timed it so we
didn’t have too much time with the flies before they all went to bed for the
night (as soon as it’s dark). Then it becomes a battle with the moths as you
cook with all the windows and doors open as it was still about 30 degrees out.
finished burritos and star gazed for a while with our sky apps spotting
Jupiter, the Southern Cross and Scorpio.
slept well and awoke to the beautiful sunrise. Today would be a long drive day.
We needed to make up about 450km to Karijini National Park. From there we have
a day to chill out there and check the beautiful gorges.
We left Jenny and the French and returned our rental car and then got the exact same rental car again. We had to do this as renting the car for two weeks was more expensive then renting the car for one week and the one week.
We got a ton of groceries and headed south. First stop was in Capel. We rented a room in an Airbnb and the woman, Clair, was so kind. She had a family emergency at the same time so we basically had her entire house to ourselves. Vivi got a small job ($5/day) to feed the 2 cats and 2 chickens which she really liked.
Our first stop was a winery called Capel Vale close by where we realized that all the wine tasting was going to be free. Amazing.
I won’t go into all details of all the wineries we went to but needless to say we tasted some beautiful wines.
We also visited Peppermint Beach where we were the only people there. White sand and turquoise water. We had a picnic there.
The next day we visited “the longest jetty in the Southern Hemisphere” at Busselton. We heard this by so many people. It was mildly humorous. There were a few other “the longest, oldest, most curved things in the Southern Hemisphere” that we came across. It’s funny, you never hear about anything being the biggest in the “Northern Hemisphere” but I guess it’s a thing here.
We also went out to the peninsula where we visited Eagle Bay and did a little walk around a lighthouse. Luc read to us about how the French came on some epic journeys way back when to discover Australia and chart the coach and discover the flora and fauna. And meet the locals of course.
We also visited a couple of other wineries and breweries. We enjoyed cooking in Clair’s full service kitchen and dishwasher! I knew it wasn’t long until we would be without a full range of cooking utensils so I wanted to make the most of it.
The following day we left there and headed to Margaret River. We stopped at wineries, a chocolate factory and really enjoyed the coast. We stopped at Canal Rocks where the stormy Indian Ocean battered against the rocks. We also tried to find a picnic area but we were all so hungry so settled for a place that had a bunch of cabins but no one was there. Except for a woman who said “it’s private property but you can picnic on the table over there.”
We made our way down to this little seaside surf motel called Surfpoint Resort in Prevelly where they were basically waiting for us to show before heading home. They gave us a run through and said “you’re the only ones staying here so have fun!” They let us have a double room (we only paid for a single), a massive commercial kitchen for us to cook in, they stoked the fire in the living room and then we were all alone. Was so neat to be the only ones. We played some new games that we bought.
The next day they offered for us to stay at the same rate we were going to pay at our next Airbnb but we had committed to that place so we packed up and set off.
A few people had recommended that we go down south to Hamelin Bay to see the stingrays that were ALWAYS on the shore. So we drove down there through the amazing Boranup Forest. The trees there are something you’ve never seen. We had to stop and take a few photos. It smelled amazing. We got there and explored around but I think the big storm the night before was still dumping big waves so the stingrays were no where to be seen. Ah well.
Then more wine and beer touring for our last day.
We stayed at our little cottage Airbnb and took off again the next morning to do some shopping, get my glasses fixed, look for warm clothes to sleep in, try to find the book “are we there yet” by Alison Lester (no luck) and get some robaxacet (double no luck). It was a errands kind of morning.
Then we stopped at the delicious cheese factory and headed up to the Bunbury Farmer’s Market. This market is like IKEA. You go around and around and get to try samples all the way along. We stocked up for camping.
We said goodbye to the Margaret River region. It was so lovely to spend a few days visiting the rugged coastline and sampling delicious wine and beer.
We stopped at an electronics store and picked up a new drone! We thought this next leg of our trip, the coast of Western Australia and the Northern Territory would be an awesome place to fly a drone. It’s also something we’ve been wanting for our whole trip. Turns out Luc is a natural at it. Check this video for our maiden voyage (it was me that flew it into a tree).
Next stop our Airbnb trailer in the trailer park in Dawesville. This trailer was a bit out of the 70s but it was a good price.
We needed to do some prepping for our road trip so we took a day to learn how to fly the drone and I did baked potatoes, quinoa and Vivi and I baked chocolate chip cookies. It felt so good to do some cooking and prepping for our 5 week road trip.
Just so you know what comes next… we rent a campervan and take off up the coast of Australia for the next 3 weeks. Destination: Darwin. It’s actually only 19 days so it’s a lot of driving but I adore road trips and camping in a van so I’m LOVING life. Remember: I did this exact same road trip 20 years ago with my cousin.
Then we hop a flight from Darwin to Cairns and drive down to Brisbane for two weeks in the exact same kind of campervan.
On the 23rd we drove to pick up the campervan. That took a lot longer than we had hoped. But, total score, there was a pile at the camper pickup place of free stuff that people left behind. I grabbed: oatmeal, rice, a big water container, a tarp, a big shopping bag, a beach awning, a thing to suspend laundry from, washing pods for clothing, sponges, a plastic bowl, lemons, and a few other things I’m sure I forgot.
Then the bad news. Luc thought we didn’t need to get the insurance for the van because he thought it was covered under our Visa but we double checked the fine print and we weren’t covered. So we needed to pay $600 more than we thought we were going to. Oh geez. That wasn’t in our budget. We decided to forgo the extra $130 for windshield and tire repair. Cross our fingers we don’t need that.
Wow. Australia. So good
to be back. So good to be in a cooler place and a place where I can cook my own
meals. So good to be able to drink the water out of the tap. So good to eat
salads and grilled cheese sandwiches, yogurt, coffee from a bodum, start my day
off with a hot water and freshly squeeze lemon. So many things I missed since
leaving Switzerland. 4 months is a long time. And I realized I sort of forgot
how to cook as well. While a did a bit of cooking in Switzerlerand, it feels
like it’s been 10 months since I cooked something on a stove.
Firsts that really put
such a smile on my face:
cool temps. Walking outside of the airport and
happily putting on my sweater.
The smell of grass. I haven’t smelt fresh cut
grass in probably 10 months. It is an incredible smell.
The 2 or 3 ply toilet paper. What a treat.
Our first buffalo chicken Subway sandwich with
blue cheese dressing. Absolute perfect thing to eat for a massage of the taste
Shopping for white wine that tastes great and
is only $10 a bottle.
Shopping in a grocery store. 4 months since we’ve
done this. So many things to look at and now to take into consideration all the
plastic consumption. So we’re buying glass jars as much as possible and
avoiding brands that are in plastic. #newmarketingniche
Driving. OMG driving myself. While it was a bit
nerve-wracking to drive again on the left hand side (it’s been a week and I
still throw on the windshield wipers when I want to turn a corner), I’m
enjoying the freedom of just hopping in the car and going to get what we need.
I’m so thrilled to be
back in Australia after 20 years. The smell of the Eucalyptus trees is
incredible. The birds! Green parrots flying wild everywhere. The funny sounds
some of them make. I must confess that I spend a lot of time wondering now if
sticks are snakes after seeing one on the road at Rottnest.
Interestingly, I don’t
remember a lot of the places that I went before when I was here. I wonder if
maybe the memories will come back as we move up the coast toward Darwin. I had
to ask my cousin where we lived for 3 months… couldn’t remember. We’re going to
swing by there in a couple of days when we leave Perth area. I also don’t
remember Rottnest Island at all when I visited that with my cousin, Linda. I
guess that’s good in a way that I get to make my own memories again with Luc
Our first week here
has been really wonderful.
We signed up for Helpx
to find a place to live for free for a week and have a home base to explore
Perth and Freemantle. Helpx is a website that puts people who need help around
their house with people who need a place to stay. We found Jenny and her two
dogs Nora and Charlie and her huge property just outside of Fremantle for a
week. Jenny needed some help with gardening, pool cleaning, website updates,
and some general maintenance for 1.5 hours a day. In return we got a room and
access to her kitchen to cool wonderful meals. We also could use the pool but
it’s cool here now! Vivi got the use of a blow up mattress and sleeping bag and
her own room too!
There was also another
couple living there who were building their van to travel around Australia. A French
couple – wouldn’t you know! So Luc and Vivi were loving speaking in French.
They also spent 5 months in South East Asia so we had a good time comparing
We all shared meals
together for a couple of nights and we went out and watched Jenny play a gig at
a restaurant called Gypsy Tapas in Fremantle. She’s a wonderful singer. Check out her music.
Our first outing was
to Kings Park overlooking Perth. We gawked at the perfectly manicured lawn that
was like carpet and good enough to eat on. The views were stunning.
We walked through the Botanical
Gardens and looked at all the beautiful flowers and trees. Luc took many photos
to send back to his mom in Switzerland.
Then we walked over to
the natural playground in the park. This playground is huge! Vivi had a great
time cruising through all the structures and playing on the rocks.
Mother’s Day and Rottnest
While we were here we
celebrated Mother’s day! Luc and Vivi made me a cake and we went down to South
Beach and Bather’s Beach near Freo. We also visited a brewery and had some
delicious dark IPA’s. I’ve been missing those dark dreamy beers. Fremantle reminded
me of New Orleans with the architecture. It’s also so beautiful and really
feels artsy and chilled out.
The following day we
got up EARLY to catch a ferry to Rottnest and do some exploring. Rottnest Island
is a must see. It’s really expensive to get there and rent bikes (it cost us $192
with parking) but I’d say it was worth it. We biked all over the island. It
wasn’t too hot, just perfect. The beaches there are white sand and turquoise
blue water. We found a really long beach where we were all alone (again) and I
suggested we skinny-dip in broad daylight! Luc said “I don’t think we can do
that here” I said “and so…?” and so we did. I was first in and last out. It was
breathtaking. The water was cool and it was so refreshing to not have to strip out
of a wet bathing suit. We really should do that more often. Hey now there’s an
We saw a ton of
wildlife on Rottnest. Birds with orange beaks, a pelican, the infamous Quokka
that is so incredibly cute and tame (don’t feed, don’t touch!), a snake on the
road, probably 20 or more lizards.
We had a mishap where
Vivi fell off her bike near the (not so) Pink Lake but she dusted herself off
and got back up again no tears.
If you go to Rottnest,
pack a lunch and snacks. Food over there is EXPENSIVE!
Next stop Margaret
My mood has significantly lifted. I attribute
this so much to the weather and being able to cook my own meals. It wasn’t that
I was in a shitty mood before but the heat and eating in restaurants 3 times a
day was just kind of oppressive in a way.
The wildlife here is stunning.
Good coffee and white wine. My two staples
needed to make me feel at home and comforted.
We’ve gone vegetarian 6 days out of 7 to cleanse
our bodies and get lots of whole grains, legumes, and raw veggies into our
bodies. Hummus….. yummmmmm!
It’s dry here so it’s a bit of a shock to go
from tropical rain forest to bushland but the drop in humidity has me feeling a
lot lighter and wanting to walk and explore a lot more.
I’m so freaking excited about getting in our
van and driving up to Darwin! 7 more sleeps!
Time to slow it
allllll down…. This is the place we’ve come to recharge and just be. Catching
up with ourselves, blogging, writing, reading, video editing, sleeping, just
being and reconnecting with my heart. Traveling, while I’m so grateful to be
able to have this experience, is exhausting! I’m going to create a few blog
posts on how we decided what method of travel, where we decided to go next, how
long we decided to stay in places, etc… all of this takes brain power and is
something that Luc enjoys but also, there are so many options and sometimes we
take the cheapest (usually walking and bussing) and sometimes we take the
easiest (plane). But Bali is a break from the fast travel and a rest before
Australia where we have volunteering lined up, traveling in a van for 5 weeks around
the coasts of Australia and lots of discovering.
I was really excited
to go to Bali. It’s my second time being here. I came here 20 years ago with my
mom and her friend for 10 days. I was excited for the beauty of it, the
massages, the avocadoes, the beaches, and the people. What I wasn’t afraid of
was getting sick. Last time I was here I came down with a terrible fever and
all associated issues with food poisoning or a parasite/bacteria so was really
worried about that. I’m writing this after 26 days and (knock on wood) we’re
still totally fine.
I really feel that
Bali is one of the most beautiful places on earth. Everywhere you look it’s
stunning and breathtaking. Avocadoes aren’t what they used to be. I can hardly
find them anywhere. They are still big but not as in abundance as before. I’ve
had two massage since being here and I think that’s my fault for not putting
time aside for that. Must get one more in before I leave here. And the people
are so kind and beautiful.
Legian and the Fancy Hotel: Element
Not much to report
when arriving. It was dark, the taxi drivers at the airport are pretty
aggressive (I told one to leave us alone he was that in our face). We stayed
our first night in a little place with a nice pool in Legian. It was nice to get
our footing and hit a bank to take out some money.
Then we moved to Ubud
where our 4th fancy hotel was. This was an eco-hotel and a little
bit on the lower end but still really beautiful and the breakfast was out of
this world. We checked in and just spent the day at the hotel enjoying the pool
and room. We met some people from the States who also are super savvy with
their points and told us about all the amazing places they have stayed for
free. They earn points with work so that gets them to more places than us.
In the morning we did
some yoga at the hotel (I hurt my neck… sigh….) and Luc took off on a bike ride
to explore the rice terraces and discover Luwak Coffee. Vivi and I played in
the pool some more.
It’s always a nice
transition when you start your new country with a fancy hotel to get your
bearings and not feel like you have to start exploring and discovering immediately.
You actually feel like you need to take some moments of relaxation and moments
of research to study where you want to go next.
Ubud: Bali Sunshine Homestay
We booked a place for
a week called Bali Sunshine. We picked a place with a pool as we thought that
there would be families and kids there. Turns out that it’s the low season and
we were the only ones there. Hmmm… but the place was stunning. We upgraded to a
room beside the pool for an extra $6/night. Luc is still sore about that. But I
wanted to be beside the pool so we could just walk out and take our coffee, or
write a blog, do learning time or watch Vivi play in the pool from the room.
Only thing was that
this place backed onto a rice field which was stunning but also bug infested
where we found cockroaches, crickets, spiders, ants, lizards. When the room is
only about 400 sqft that’s a little piece of shared space with a lot of bugs.
The other things was
we were located about 6km’s away from Ubud. So really out in the sticks. But
being in the sticks has it’s pluses. We frequented the same two restaurants for
a week and got to know the staff and the menus. The pool was wonderful so we
really enjoyed our time in there. And I got to learn how to ride a scooter!
For the most part we
hung around the pool while Vivi swam and did learning time. We ventured out 2
times on scooters to visit a waterfall, Luwak coffee farms, rice terraces, Pura
Tirta Empul and eat lunch (where I got stung on the toe but I was assured from
a local it was not a hospital visit I needed) in one of the most beautiful
restaurants I’ve seen (the view was incredible). All of those places I
mentioned were absolutely stunning. It was like candy for my eyes everywhere. Being
on a scooter is so much fun! Vivi would ride on the back of Luc’s as I was
super nervous and to be honest, if we crashed, our insurance wouldn’t cover us
so we needed to be hyper focused. I made sure that we went out on our first
ride on a Sunday, when there wasn’t much traffic. I also didn’t want to go too
far for the first go. I love it so much I want to get a scooter now when I get
home. Preferably an electric scooter so there’s less pollution.
We stayed at Bali
Sunshine for a week and it was just what we needed to chill and actually be on
Ubud: Dewa Bungalows
We moved for 5 days
into the centre to be around some more people and see Ubud a bit more.
Dewa Bungalows was
where we chose to stay. We met a really nice Aussie couple at the pool where
Vivi got to play Uno with the woman and we asked a lot about Australia. We also
got to connect with other people (which we love), tell our stories, listen to
their stories and I got to talk about the Camino as Nicola was thinking of
doing it as well. They are also on a 1 year trip around the world just starting
We arrived on Thursday
in the early afternoon and I had a couple of places I wanted to visit. An
eco-store and the post office to pick up stamps. We also needed to visit the
bank. We left Vivi back at the room for a bit while we set off in the run our
errands. By the time we got to the bank, most of them were closing (2:30-3pm).
And the following day, it was a bank holiday so they weren’t open. We walked
from bank to bank. Some banks were already closed, some banks were just closing
and some wouldn’t take our credit card to give us cash advances. You would
think that an ATM was a good idea but we wanted to take out more than an ATM
would give us and more importantly, they don’t work with our Visa card. NONE OF
THEM DO. So we tried our MC. That didn’t work too. Last resort (because of the
incredible bank fees) our bank card (that worked but would only give 300. We
were stuck: we would need to leave one day later and wait for the bank to open
on Monday. I guess it’s not so bad when you’re stuck in paradise.
The next day we walked
to a nice walking area. We tried to get there early enough in the day but it
was already blazing hot. We found the cheapest Bali swing ($5 vs $15) we had
seen and Vivi went for a swing. Then I took off to walk to another eco store
that I wanted to visit.
We met back at this
really expensive cool restaurant where we got fancy juices.
The next day was a day
at the hotel and Luc hiked to the Volcano! We didn’t want to get up at 2am –
nope not interested. We just lounged, washed laundry in the sink, and I went to
my first grocery store in what seems like 3 months. I spent an hour in there
just looking around at all the cool stuff. It felt like a new world to me. So
tired of doing my food and beverage shopping in 7/11s and Circle K’s. I found S
& V Kettle Chips for $8 a bag!!! I almost got them. I also had a
We hired the guy who
we rented a room off of to pick us up and take us to Amed. Amed is a slow
little diving and snorkeling area on the northeast side of Bali. We booked for
3 nights and stayed for 8 we loved it that much!
It’s 2.5 hours from
Ubud to Amed and the drive is worth paying $50 to get there. We had a room
right beside the pool (there are two pools) with a view to the ocean. The ocean
is quite far away to see (only 8 mins to walk to) but so beautiful. Again not
many people staying at this hotel (it started to pick up before we left). But
the cleanliness and the staff make the stay here so worth it.
Last month they had a
6.8 magnitude earthquake and it rocked and rolled a lot of stuff. The pool that
we swam in got a leak from it. It was a little unnerving to live in a tsunami
zone for 8 days and even more when we moved into a red zone for a couple of
hours (where if the active volcano erupts we were goners) but I kept telling
myself that we can’t live in fear or we’d never leave our house.
Luc signed up for 4
dives and 1 night dive and Vivi signed up for her first diving! I couldn’t
believe at 8 years old they will take a kid into the ocean with dive gear. She
was nervous and excited and probably one of the most proud moments of my life (right
up there with taking her first steps). I actually cried. She did two dives with
Julien who was excellent with her (and with me the nervous mom). She was so
proud of herself. She did really well equalizing her ears and breathing all the
time. She only went to 4 (5.5) metres deep but it was enough to get a taste of
diving and she loved it. She cried the next time we were at the dive shop and
she couldn’t go (It’s expensive!). I’d love for her to go diving in Fiji when
we’re there (they also let 8 year olds go) but it’s even more expensive there.
3 mornings I got up at
5:30 to watch the beautiful oranges and be there when the sun came up. It was
exquisite. One morning Luc joined me.
Once when Luc did two
dives, Vivi and I hired a guy for $15 to take us snorkelling around where he
would be. I wasn’t confident enough in the water with Vivi to do it alone and
to be honest didn’t know what to do it I got into a current. I’ve had some experiences
with rip tides in Australia and also getting rescued by the coast guard when I
was in my teens. So some of my past definitely lives in my fears now. The
snorkelling was awesome! We saw 2 turtles: one on the sea floor and one that
was swimming with us. Vivi and I fell in love. It was just too bad that there
was also a plastic bag swimming with us at the same time. We also saw many
fish, coral, a snake, a sea cucumber, and dolphins from shore!
The sand in Amed is a
black gold sand which is HOT and very interesting. If you go there, Lipah beach
seems to have the best beach for sand (not rocks).
Two times we rented
scooters and zoomed around the countryside having so much fun. I also got in
some shopping and we took out kayaks. These kayaks are from the 70s though and
I couldn’t steer it so gave up after falling in and I couldn’t get back on.
All in all most days
were spent doing something in the morning and then chilling at the pool in the
afternoon. Vivi’s swimming has increased exponentially and she is such a strong
swimmer now. It’s incredible to see the transformation she’s taken in the last
10 months with her confidence in the water. She loves her snorkeling mask and
spends most of the time under the water. She loves to swim between our legs and
her most somersaults in the water is 6! She is a pro diver, front crawl and
recently we told her how to do a front crawl into a somersault at the wall,
push off and then do front crawl again and she’s mastered that. A swimming
group and/or synchronized swimming is something that we’ll be looking into when
we get home.
We said goodbye to
Amed and the staff at the hotel and we were ready to move on. We absolutely
loved Amed but really felt like we were ready to experience something else now.
Most times I just feel like we move on before we’re ready but spending 8 days
here exploring and breathing and being close to the ocean has reinvigorated me.
We jetted into another
2.5 hour drive to Sanur. We had heard that the beaches in Sanur are nice and so
we wanted to check it out. We also heard it was good for kids too.
We checked into our
bungalow but it turned out that the room we had was the most we’ve paid since
Thailand and probably the worst we’ve been in. It smelled old, rotten, moldy,
like moth balls. There was mold on the walls that had been painted over and it
was nowhere close to the massive pool. The resort (?) was huge with no one
around. Everything seemed pretty run down. We asked to change rooms and they
moved us to the pool. A step up but still pretty dindgy. Attention to detail =
-4. Then after a dip in the warm pool, we went back to the room (37 degrees
out) and the AC wasn’t working. A guy showed us 2 more rooms and still no AC
working. They said that they would get an engineer out to fix it.
We took off for the
beach. The beach is a seaside little area with lots of Bali shopping and it’s a
jumping off to Nusa Penida. After walking around and exploring we ate and
headed back to the hotel onto to find out that the engineer hadn’t been by and
that we could move to a room that we had already checked out and there was no
AC. But shockingly there was AC! Thank you universe as I really didn’t know
what I was going to do. We stayed two more nights at this place and were happy
Sanur is a quiet
little beachside resort town which I liked. I think I’m just a bit sick of the
heat and walking around in it. You know how you get when you know you’re going
on vacation and everything at work begins to bug you about 4 days before your
last day at work? Well, we’re about 5 days away from cool weather and Australia
and I think we’re just done with the tropics. I’m done with eating out and
can’t wait for yummy salads that I can prepare, lentils, sandwiches filled with
veggies, food I can buy in a grocery store. We’re thinking of going vegetarian
or eating meat just one day a week to limit our impact on the environment and
just start to get back to basics and flush our body with fresh vegetables and
whole grains. It’s going to be cool enough that hopefully I can start running
in the mornings and doing workouts outside. We are also looking forward to our
first volunteering opportunity when we get to Fremantle. We are staying for
free in a woman’s home for 1.5 hours of house and garden work a day. After we
leave there, we go down south for a week and check out Margaret River and the
wine area. I CAN’T WAIT!! Then back up to Perth to pick up our camper and hit
the road up north to Darwin. We’re taking 3 weeks. I’m just so excited about
what comes next and the cool weather and salads. When we get to Australia on
the 8th it will be 4 months that we have been backpacking.
Kuta and the last 3 days
We grabbed a GoJek to
take us to Kuta and checked into a backpacker hostel here. Happy to be around a
lot of people and so close to a white sandy beach. We’re now on the west coast
so the sunset is profound. There is also an incredible cool pool here with lots
of floaties and people to play with. And a slide! As you can tell, I’m writing
in the first person so I’m finaly caught up to our travels! This is monumental!
But I think this place probably set me back the cost of getting my website free
of hackers unfortunately. I realized at this moment that my blog had been
hacked so I needed to pay someone over $350 to fix it. Sigh…
We have just been
laying pretty low our last few days here. We watched an incredible sunset on
Kuta beach and then moved to another hotel closer to the airport. I’m spending
my last days enjoying Bali and looking forward to Australia. We went and saw
Avengers: Endgame on our last day.
So long Bali, you are
so beautiful inside and out. I hope to make it back to you one day a few years
from today to enjoy your beauty once again.